Archive for the 'Cape Cod' Category

Oct 13 2011

A Brick’s Journey

Brick from American Whalers at Port Egmont, Saunders IslandThe brick measures roughly two inches by seven inches by threeand- a-half inches. Typical red, well-weathered and with a couple chunks taken out around it. It bears the stains of having been submerged in the sea at times, which is only right because of the location where I picked it up.

The flight from Port Stanley Airport was in a two-engine, eight-seater puddle jumper. From the capital of the Falklands, we skimmed around the eastern edge of the islands in the far South Atlantic and west across the treeless open country and rocky outcroppings from field and water.

Ever since arriving here a few days prior, our crew of Hit and Run History kept remarking how cinematic the landscape was. But that was from ground-level. Now, from a couple hundred feet up, we could grasp the immensity of the place. West Falkland is about the size of Rhode Island and has maybe 90 people. Fewer trees. More cattle. And tens of thousands of sheep, at least.

Hit and Run History boards FIGAS flight from Port Stanley to Saunders Island

The journey to Saunders Island in the remote west of the Falklands took less than an hour, giving us the time to separate from the coziness of our experience back in Port Stanley.

We were able to witness the sort of treacherous waters that our subject had encountered two centuries hence.

Never having sailed these waters, John Kendrick led the Columbia Expedition - the first American voyage ‘round the world - here in February 1788. Having left Cape Verde a couple of months before, the ship Columbia and sloop Washingtonsought a respite before the treacherous round of Cape Horn. Port Egmont, on the eastern edge of Saunders Island, offered one of the finest harbors in the world according to British explorers.

Touching down on the grass strip on Saunders, we were met by two Land Rover Defenders. The Pole-Evans family owns the entirety of Saunders, which comprises about the same land mass as the city of Boston. They told us the regular population is six. With the addition of our crew of five, we nearly doubled the population.

Over West Falkland copyright Hit and Run History

Soon after getting settled into our cabin, David Pole-Evans, who has lived on the island all his life, showed up to offer a ride to Port Egmont. It was just over the hill from their settlement near Sealers Cove.

Within a couple hours of boarding our flight from Port Stanley, we were standing amidst the tumbledown ruins of Port Egmont. Although the Brits had established a settlement here - their first in the islands - in 1765, the Spanish had forced them to evacuate within a decade, and eventually demolished the place. But due to the natural protection of the topography and abundant fresh water, game birds and anti-scurvy greens, Port Egmont remained for decades a popular place for sealers and whalers from both England the U.S. to use on a seasonal basis.

In the early months of 1788, Kendrick, who grew up on the shores of Pleasant Bay, felt his way toward Port Egmont. Unfamiliar with the area, he overshot the entrance and instead ended up in Brett Harbor, on the backside of Saunders. No one was here.

Port Egmont, Saunders Island, Falklands

Making the best of it, they took on the supplies from the countryside they desperately needed. Several of his officers took the chance to make the short trek overland to Port Egmont. We were walking literally in their footsteps.

Having thoroughly documented our time all over Saunders, ranging across to Brett Harbor and down to the natural dry dock where they would have landed their water casks, we were doing what historians need to do. Getting out in direct contact with our topic. If Kendrick was the first American here, we were the first to follow him here to tell his story.

In the Age of Information, one can easily view documents from libraries across the world, or sample photos of an area. But the smell and touch of the place, and the chance to talk with a man like David Pole-Evans right on the shores of Port Egmont, is of a completely higher order. We could see where the warehouse was right on the waterfront, the dock nearby where boats would have landed, and the spot where the tripots were set up for the grisly work of boiling down seal carcasses for oil. The shore, in fact, was littered with cobblestones and the remnants of bricks.

Surveying the area together, David mentioned the bricks here were not of the same dimension as British bricks. Those are flatter than those made in the U.S. It had been determined these bricks were from American ships. Knowing that the American whale and sealing fleet had originated mostly from New England ports like Nantucket and New Bedford, we realized yet again that our path had circled back to home.

Andrew Buckley of Hit and Run History and David Pole-Evans at Port Egmont, Saunders Island

This is just the kind of discovery that we feel honored to share with our series on WGBH. This kind of natural storytelling is in the blood of Cape Codders who for centuries, like John Kendrick, ranged across the world. We are happy that we have inspired a new generation as well in the China: Through My Eyes series which premiered a couple weeks back to great public acclaim.

Bringing back stories is one thing, however. Filming our discoveries brings the story of Columbia to a global audience. But before we left Port Egmont, I asked David if I could have one of the bricks. He owns the whole island, after all, and he agreed. The most intact example traveled back 8,000, via Santiago, Chile, and JFK, home to my bookshelf on Cape Cod.

Hit and Run History on WGBH

It is possible we could find out where this brick was made, and we’re looking forward to sharing it with the New Bedford Whaling MuseumCape Cod Museum of Natural History and the United States Merchant Marine Academy. This simple amalgam of mud, stones and sand has gone more places than most people have. It has an amazing story to share, and we’re looking forward to finding it out.

Read this and Andy’s other columns online at The Cape Cod Chronicle.

* * * * *

LAN AirlinesHit and Run History is the centerpiece of WGBH’s History page.  Their forthcoming Falklands Ho! series is the third installment following the voyage following John Kendrick and the Columbia Expedition around  the world. Hit and Run History thanks LAN AirlinesTurismo Chile and Ocean State Job Lotfor helping make this possible.

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Jun 09 2011

SCURVY DOGS OF HIT AND RUN HISTORY

Sealers Cove, Saunders IslandStranded in the Falklands, Part 2

Six thousand five hundred miles from home, 400 miles east of South America, and only 800 miles north of Antarctica, I came to realize a few key truths.

The first was that peoples living in similar geographies can relate to them very differently. Having spent a week in the Falkland Islands, following the story of John Kendrick and the Columbia Expedition, with our crew from Hit and Run History, some things felt fairly familiar. Talking about their tourist season (here in the Southern Hemisphere being November to March), we heard stories of how it was common for locals to work two or three jobs. Farmer/tour guide, for example. Or police officer/bar tender/taxi driver. Come to think of it now, that last combination makes a lot of sense.

That’s the sort of jack-of- all-trades adaptation to a seasonal economy that Cape Codders are known for. Nimble like a catboat, we can turn on a dime…typically to save one, if not make one.

On the other hand, here we were amongst these islands - their treelessness compounding their vast open spaces - and only took a boat ride once.

Yes, certainly, the weather in May was akin to late November on Cape Cod.

Kane Stanton meets a local in Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

But we weren’t there for anything other than tracking the movements of the first American voyage ‘round the world. This wasn’t a golf vacation or a series of board meetings. We tried every chance we could to get outside into the wild. With 3,000 people scattered across a collection of islands totaling about the size of Connecticut, you would be forgiven to think you’d find a seafaring people. Instead, the place has grown up connected more to sheep herding. That and taking advantage of its location at the approach between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

The Falklands are pretty much the equivalent of that “Last Gas for 200 miles” sign on a lonely stretch of highway in the desert Southwest. You stop here for your provisions, coming or going, or you take your chances. That’s a very different kind of economy from ours. It also means that there’s a lot of mutton available from sheep that have outlived the usefulness of their wool. For a land whose high sustained winds and otherwise tundra-ish climate discourage a lot of vegetable farming (and ongoing tensions with Argentina complicate produce shipments), the high protein, low greens diet made us yearn for even a decent glass of orange juice. And there’s where I came to a second truth.

Having lived in Europe years back, and then recently traveled to China this April, and through Chile on our way down to the Falklands, I can say with a clear conscious: America may be falling behind in educational, economic and technological advancement, but at least we know how to make OJ.

I can’t say what it is about European orange juice except it always seems rather thin. Not watered-down maybe. Just like it had been really strained and perhaps not made with the sweetest oranges. Like something you felt you had to drink, but did not want to.As forAsia and Chile, what can I say except “Tang.” Or some drink with an orange color and a sweet flavor. Not quite flat Fanta, but closer to that than anything that actually came from a tree. As I have said about the complete inability to find decent, cheap bread in the United States versus in Europe, “How hard can it be?” In the case of OJ, the recipe is even simpler than bread (which has only been around a few thousand years).

Hit and Run History thanks LAN Airlines on the Neck at Saunders Island

Take an orange. Drain it. Put in glass. Serve. Let me tell you, I don’t understand it, but America needs to hold onto that knowledge. We got that down. The third truth was that, no matter that only 50 miles separated us in Port Howard from the airport in Mount Pleasant, there was just no way we were going to get to the once-a-week LAN Airlines flight. We were stuck.

No matter that the LAN flight back to Chile was delayed by weather coming in, and was then sitting on the tarmac, as a helicopter pilot in Mount Pleasant was telling me over the phone. All inter-island flights with  the Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS) were grounded by historic fogs, and had been so for the previous two days. Up until a few hours prior, we had patiently waited to be taken from Saunders Island, in the remote west.

The planes remained grounded, however, by fog at the main airport in Stanley, the capital. Then a helicopter was to have headed out - only to hit a wall of fog 10 minutes into the flight. At last we prevailed upon our hosts to take us by Zodiac to West Falkland Island. From there, we picked up a ride in a Land Rover Defender across this open space the size of Rhode Island with only 90 inhabitants.

LAN Airlines partners with Hit and Run HistoryAll we would need is to catch the ferry across Falkland Sound, or to see if the fog had lifted enough to get a plane into Port Howard, on the west side of the sound. Only 50 miles from our LAN flight, and our one chance to get off the Falklands for another seven days. Neither was happening. No ferry until the next afternoon. No pilots willing to fly. They’re used to wind - and lots of it - in the Falklands. But not fog. And here we were, a crew from an island of sand and fog, trapped on another.

So to cap it off, a fourth and final truth was to come to light —it was going to be a long seven days without any orange juice.

(to be continued…)

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Feb 20 2011

Hit and Run History is Top Film Project in Boston

Hit and Run History Cape Cod Film crew

Local Adventure-Travel Show leads on Kickstarter

Heading into this long weekend, we here at Hit and Run History thought we’d challenge our fans — especially those on the Cape — to help raise our profile on the online fundraising site Kickstarter.

After all, if you are working to follow the first American voyage ’round the world and you’re looking to head down to Cape Horn, you don’t turn down the offer of a South American cruise lineCruceros Australis to take you through the Straits of Magellan.  So we’re just looking to raise the funds to bring our crew down there.

It’s no accident that we received the first-ever Social Media Outreach Grant from the Massachusetts Humanities Foundation recently.  On Thursday, we went to work using Facebook and Twitter especially.

Now, thanks to the help of dozens and dozens of our fans, in just 48 hours we have doubled the amount of money pledged and tripled our number of backers.Andrew Buckley Jay Sheehan and Jamie Gallant of Hit and Run History

And having just checked on Kickstarter’s “Boston Projects” page, you can see Hit and Run History is THE TOP FILM PROJECT IN BOSTON.

That’s right — your scrappy band of New Englanders is taking on the world and making a name for itself.

But like Captain John Kendrick and the rest of the crew of the Columbia Expedition, we still have a long way ahead of us.  So please, take a moment and pledge a buck.  Yes, just $1.00.

Help us keep the number of backers growing and push us to the top film project in the country.  That will take grassroots support.  We’ve proven this works, and we’re looking to get the attention of the larger underwriters.

Give us a look…

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Feb 18 2011

Racing the Tide

Andy Buckley of Hit and Run History

On Tuesday night, I was at the New York Yacht Club when the Argentine Consul made sure to say goodbye to me on his way out.

That’s a hell of a revelation. How did a simple clammdigger from the Common Flat off Monomoy Island get here?

It was a 5:15 AM wakeup, a two-hour drive to Providence, the 4-hour express bus ride into Manhattan, and a short walk over. That’s literally how I did it. And it would be followed by the 10 PM ride out of the city, getting home at 3 AM.

That’s the sort of determination it has taken over the past three years to get Hit and Run History noticed. To get us to in the door at WGBH. To get over 1,500 fans worldwide. To get me invited to a reception for Cruceros Australis, the South American cruise line that is offering to take us from Patagonia to Cape Horn.

And to end up talking with the Argentine Consul for New York about what the American sailors of the Columbia found in the Falklands. “Malvinas” he corrected me, most diplomatically. But he wanted to know more about these tough Yankee sailors like John Kendrick who attempted the near suicidal rounding of Cape Horn.

It’s our third chapter of our story. In following the Columbia Expedition around the world, every other location will be relatively easy: Vancouver, Hawaii, China and Japan. But just try to find a flight to the Falklands. Once a week, and pretty expensive at that.

Hit and Run History at Cape Horn

Then throw in the End of the Earth - Cape Horn - and Robinson Crusoe Island off Chile. Now multiply by the number of crew we need to do this. 3, 4 or best at 5.

We can do this. We can get to all these places. We can get on the ship before season ends and the offer is gone.

We can show the world, and the networks, what a scrappy band from the coast of New England can do. Just like our story.

But we’ve just got to get your help. And we need it right away.

As a fan, you’ve probably noticed our posts about our Kickstarter campaign. For travel and production, we only need $19,500. That’s peanuts compared to most hour-long episodes of a travel, history or reality show.

But my experience as a commercial fisherman has taught me that you can make up for a lot with hard work, tenacity and creativity. And the tides wait for no one. Get out, get what you need, and move on.

Now we have a chance to show the angel investors and talent scouts who pay attention to Kickstarter that we have real support. Sure, it would be great if every one of our fans went to our page and pledged $25 (which also gets you a digital download of the film when complete).

Hit and Run History is on KickstarterIf that happened we’d surpass our goal easily. Even $10 by every fan would put us within striking distance.

But instead, I am writing to ask you today to go to our site and pledge $1. Just one dollar.

It’ll get us nowhere near our goal. But if we get 500 pledges over this weekend - from just one out of every three of our FB fans — we will zoom up into the list of most popular projects on Kickstarter.

And then the right people will notice.

So please, go to http://kck.st/hbmoKk, click on “Back this project” and pledge a buck.

If you get the chance, please, forward this to your friends ask them to do the same.

I have been very blessed to have so many talented and hardworking people to work with on Hit and Run History. We’ll be stopped dead in our tracks if we can’t tell this part of the story - the most dramatic and challenging chapter.

Asking for this doesn’t come easy. We’d rather just share our stories with you. All we’re asking for here is the equivalent of a cold drink on this long, tough road. You’d do that, right?

Many thanks,

Andy Buckley

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Oct 21 2010

Shotgun Regionalization

Published by admin under Cape Cod, Chatham, Family

“It’s OK to look.” That was the slogan of Match.com, the online dating site. A little creepy, I thought when I first saw their ads on TV. You know, it’s not OK for some people to look. Like if you’re married. Or in prison. But the ad didn’t discriminate. Clearly, the idea was if they could get people to look, they might find someone attractive enough to prompt an initial membership – paid by credit card set on auto-renew.

That’s pretty much how regionalization of schools in Harwich was put to Chatham voters at town meeting a year and a half ago. We’re not voting on regionalizing schools, we were told – just looking. Just taking a look. Let’s look. It won’t hurt to look. That sounds reasonable. OK, form a committee for that purpose. It’s OK to look.

But what wasn’t mentioned at the time was that this committee was empowered by state law to call a town meeting to vote to regionalize all on their own. An unelected committee of three able to put a major portion of the taxpayers money on the table was given this authority without any disclosure to the voters.

That town meeting would be called without the consent of the selectmen. It would be called by far less than the minimal number of voters as required by normal petition. It would be called without a single hearing by the finance committee on the fiscal soundness of the claims of great savings being made. And although it could have been done with ease, it would be called without ever asking the parents of the roughly 600 children in Chatham schools what they want.

I’m a parent of a Chatham student. The school has my e-mail. They have my home phone and cell phone numbers. They send home reams and reams of paper every day of notices for this, that and everything else. So if anyone actually wanted to know what I wanted for Sofie, there were many ways to go about it. I am only left with the conclusion that they haven’t asked parents because they don’t want to hear what they have to say.

And holding a public hearing – during the information age – is the barest of efforts, and about the most pathetic attempt at civic engagement available. But this isn’t about what students need, or what parents want for them, or consent of the governed. It is about rushing to the altar before we have a chance to think this through.

This was about looking. Just looking. It was not getting into an arranged marriage. Sorry, no, Harwich, I like you. But as a friend. I know we’ve lived next door to each other, and some well-meaning people who don’t know us very well think we’d look great together, but, well, you’ve gotissues.

I know you need a new high school, and I feel for you and your kids. But marrying for money is not the solution. And you know what they say, “Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.” Really, I can’t take your protestations of a rosier life for Chatham’s kids and your kids together when you seem to be in a perpetual state of economic meltdown.

Honestly, this seems like nothing more than a money grab by you, and power grab by Chatham school officials who don’t want their budgets as closely examined by their own finance committee and voters at town meeting.

You see, I look up the road a little from you and I see Dennis-Yarmouth. And that’s just a disaster. But you say we don’t have to be that way. We’ll get along. We’ll have a nice new high school. Well, that’s the thing – we already have a good high school in Chatham. And a new middle school. We paid a lot of money for it. A lot, and it was not without some headaches to build it. What’s more, if you want to talk about cost savings, look at Falmouth, who ended paying an extra $19 million in cost overruns for their high school.

Sorry, Harwich, but we in Chatham have our plates full as it is. We’re doing a lot of building right now, what with a new police station, a new town office annex, a new fire station, and a major sewer expansion. Getting into a permanent, open-ended commitment just doesn’t seem like the wisest thing right now.

I know you like all this talk about regionalization and cost savings and such. Maybe you’re right. You could be right. So prove us wrong. Go tell the state that we turned you down. They said you had to first ask around before they’d give you money for a new school. So you did. Go build that great new school, and put in all the cool things you mentioned. Show us you can stay within budget. That will impress Chatham.

But what’s more, show us and everyone else on the Cape that you are top-notch educators at your spiffy new school. Beat us in graduation rates and test scores and college placement.

Do that and, because of school choice, Chatham parents will be beating down your doors. And DY parents. And Nauset parents. You’ll have more students – and more money – than you’ll know what to do with.

I know, I know – a few people from Chatham came to you and got you all up for this and want to set a date for town meeting vote and everything. But they don’t speak for us. Regionalization with you just seems like too big a risk. We were just looking.

Read this and other columns at The Cape Cod Chronicle.

Note: A snap vote has been called for 4 PM on Thursday 10/21 by the Acting Chair of Chatham’s Board of Selectmen.  To voice your opposition, go to the meeting, call (508 945-5100) or email their office (rmcdonald@chatham-ma.gov).

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Sep 13 2010

Storm Stories, Tall Tales

Published by admin under Cape Cod, Chatham

Who the hell invited these jokers?Last summer, when Hurricane Bill was approaching on through, Matt Griffin and I headed out to see if we could cover the upcoming story. The story in this case being the pre-storm hype. That and all the news trucks camped out in the half-hour parking spaces in front of the lighthouse and none sporting a single orange ticket on their windshield of a violation for overstaying the half-hour limit. Never mind the network camera equipment set up on the same beach that the local yoga class has to pay hundreds of dollars for a permit to use.

The lesson being, we supposed, that you can do whatever you want in the New Chatham as long as you are a) from out of town, and b) famous.

Poor locals are expected to follow the rules and pay. A perverse reverse logic.

Fittingly, the media machine that seems to have become much too familiar with Chatham during the summer, and the non-stories that can be inflated in order to rationalize a long weekend here (sharks, storms, a house painted green), was duly skewered in our film on the pre-storm frenzy. Likewise, when Bill failed to materialize as any real threat because, as predicted, it was 300 miles offshore, we went out again the next morning. Assessing “storm damage” for this installment, we were able to interview CNN personnel from New York about, well, the whole bunch of nothing they came here to cover.

Then they were back the next weekend for Tropical Depression Danny. That turned out to be just a whole lot of rain. From what I could tell, the worst it did was to deposit in my skiff a couple inches of rain and, somehow, a large rotting horseshoe crab. For the media, I’m sure the breakfast brunch at Chatham Bars Inn was impeccable as always. That’s a commitment to the news.

But with such a low opinion of the media and those who believe them, I felt it was only a matter of time before they would be, at long last, proven correct. This broken clock had to be right at least twice a day. And so I came to wonder if that would be Earl.

This wasn’t because of anything I saw on television or observed locally. Rather, it was far from the coast, at over 6,000 feet above sea level in northern New England. For our end of the summer trek, like last summer, Sofie and I drove to the top of Mount Washington. We timed it just right, as the highs in the surrounding area were forecast for the mid-90s. The day before the observatory at the summit was reporting 54 degrees and gusts of 76 mph. I was wondering if the narrow, windy road, free of guard rails or shoulders with drops down sheer cliffs, would be closed. No.

It was a brilliant day, with temperatures in the 60s. Gusts were up to 50 mph. We took a hike 1,200 feet down to the Lake of the Clouds. The whole time we remained above the tree line.

Following our way back down, we made the necessary stop at Dairy Queen, then continued our cross-country journey to the coast, ending up in Freeport for some lastminute back-to-school shopping. Passing through Naples, Maine, I saw an LED sign out front of the fire station with “101 F” in glowing red. I assume it did not mean one hundred and one feet.

Record high temperatures down belowand with hurricane-force winds combined with sunny, mild temps at the nexus of four weather systems high above gave me pause. Perhaps, yes, this time this might just be the storm we’ve been looking for.

The next day, following our day at Water Country, I stopped at the Wal-Mart in Portsmouth, N.H. to pick up several packs of D batteries. Not so much because I thought I would need them, but because I had been informed that they were now non-existent in Chatham. I imagined myself in a bulky sweatshirt, hood up and skulking darkened street corners while people slowed down their cars and ask, “Hey man, you know where we can get some D?”

After all, those fall dresses from LL Bean and Peanut Buster Parfaits weren’t going to pay for themselves.

Once home, we moved furniture off the deck and waited for the rain to start. It was forecast for noon. I felt lucky that I was able to squeeze in a run up to Sofie’s pediatrician in Wellfleet. On the way back, the rain began, and followed us down to Orleans. Once in Harwich, it stopped. Back in Chatham, it was almost sunny. But oppressively humid. I considered for a moment that my last column about a rain shadow surrounding Chatham might not be as far off as I had thought. But I saw the radar. Something big coming.

Yeah. The rain here finally hit at 8 p.m. Yes, it was heavy. But we still didn’t get as much as Yarmouth. And the wind was barely more than a breeze for most of the afternoon. Although I read in the Boston Globe of “a deafening wind” down at the Chatham Lighthouse, I can report that a mile away on the Oyster Pond the wind was not audible from inside our home. That is pretty unusual for any windy day.

So, having partially succumbed to the belief that this could be a real hurricane, I looked back at the real weather indicators. We were on the weak side of the storm. It was a Category 3 off North Carolina, and as it moved north it was likely to be a Category 1 by the time it got here. The barometer (remember that, National Weather Service?) was not dropping precipitously.

The “Better Safe Than Sorry” crowd really needs to take it on the chin this time. Are we to go on alert for any level of risk? Well, crying “storm” one too many times undercuts credibility. We want the public to listen when the threat truly is serious and credible. And saying it is hard to predict these sorts of things when we can send probes to Mars and stuff powerful handheld computers into tiny little phones strains credulity. It seems that as the ability to accurately predict weather increases, so does the need to be frighten Americans with the greatest extremes of it. So it would be refreshing to use our best intelligence in making smart choices next time a hurricane or snowstorm heads our way. Perhaps weather forecasters and public officials could set an example by noting the words of Edward R. Murrow: “We are not descended from fearful men.”

In the mean time, if your flashlight’s batteries are dead I’ve got a nice supply of high-grade Copper Top.

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Jul 23 2010

Run For Your Lives

Published by admin under Cape Cod, Chatham

There’s always so much going on here in the summer that typically I would take three months off from any creative work. Winter is good for that on Cape Cod. You either get yourself a project to work on for nine months, or develop a drinking problem. Some people decide to split their time between both options. Your mileage may vary.

Still, like watching a Connecticut SUV as it attempts to parallel park facing the wrong direction on a rainy July day on Main Street, there are some summertime occurrences that just cannot be ignored.

tagging a great white sharkToothy Things

Oh, yay, there are sharks around. Big news. Such a headline. What this is about is that local television news likes to show stock video of sharks because they know viewers will then expect to hear something terrible and not switch to something equally as relevant like the latest has-been star with a reality show.

What I want to know is are we going to stop giving the television trucks a free pass to every prime parking space in town? They hang out for days down at the fish pier where only fishermen are allowed, or down at the lighthouse taking up two parking space by placing traffic cones around themselves, while everyone else is given 30 minutes or a $50 ticket. They’re covering a non-story, and just causing everyone to be phoned frantically by friends in other parts of country, warning we better not dip our toes in water at the Oyster Pond beach.

And it would be refreshing for local officials and the walking-ham-moonlighting-as- a-state employee Greg Skomal to start consistently telling the out-of-town hyperventilating media, “Sorry, there’s no story here. The ocean has lots of different fish. All this talk is about nothing and is taking me away from the real work the public pays me for, so I don’t have any more to say.”

Garden Spot

My earliest memory of school was waiting for the bus down at the end of Lime Hill Road, across from the end of Old Queen Anne Road and Route 28. We lived down at the other end, nearly half a mile away. With Peter Milley and Chris Dearborn, I’d wait in that godforsaken spot on the corner, unable to see the approaching bus because the grade of Lime Hill Road dips down and the bend of Main Street to the west. There was no shelter. The morning traffic on 28 was loud. What I remember most was, it was windy and cold.

Peter lived across Route 28 from Small theFlorist(whatisnowAgway). Chris’was across from the Sea in the Rough (currently Marley’s). We spent a lot of time together, at that bus stop and otherwise, ranging through the fields and woods in the area. OneplaceIalmostneverrememberplaying was the lot that is now being considered for the community gardens, described by a proponent as a “vacant lot.”

Funny, don’t we typically spend tons of money to buy such real estate, but call it “open space?”

It was an overgrown cranberry bog, covered in briars, and often wet. Of course, at that time, the grade was the same as the road. But there were times I’d be waiting for the bus that I’d notice a new pile of fill had come in the middle of the night. The lot was owned by the Smalls who also owned the small flower shop and were inviting in solid fill to make it useable. Not something that would pass muster with the conservation commission today.

Nobody really knows what was dumped there through the ‘50s, ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s while the Smalls owned it. But the filling ramped up when the Streiberts bought it, and raised the grade so high than Lime Hill Road began to wash out and break down from the constant flow of water from that lot, across the road to the duck pond in front of the much-expanded garden center that is now Agway. The filling was at last halted by the conservation commission to protect the adjacent wetland, but the land was never required to be put back the way it had been before their filling. Try cutting down trees along the shore and see if you’d get the same treatment.

Every attempt has been made by the Streiberts to expand parking for Agway onto this filled wetland. This community garden idea is definitely their most disingenuous. The group advancing this would only be tenants. And it is a pretty thorny issue to base zoning and site plans and variances and conservation decisions on a tenant, rather than the owner. In this case, the end result would be 20 parking spaces - the garden plots would be incidental and temporary. Once the lease would end, those 20 spaces would call out to be used more fully, mostly likely for condos.

Because why else would you put a garden plot that is drained onto by a busy state highway and an adjacent restaurant parking lot, abutting a sewer pumping station which, if it failed, could flood the lot with cadmium and render it a Superfund site? Of course, it is already a dump. At best, it is nothing but six feet of sand sitting on a bog, and only tons and tons of nitrogen-laden fertilizer will render it farmable. It is a completely horrible spot for a terrific idea, and it is sad that some wellmeaning people have been drawn into this cynical scheme to inevitably commercialize what was and should be allowed to return to being a wetland.

School’s Out

We’re now hearing that there may not be any cost savings if Chatham and Harwich merged school systems. Considering that was the main incentive for Chatham to do so, one would think this would pretty much stop the idea. Except there’s a committee in place to facilitate this, and God, if there isn’t anything more resolute than a group of volunteers with a regular meeting schedule under fluorescent lights and PowerPoint presentations.

The only things that seem to be understood are that Chatham will lose direct local control over its school budget, and the high school will move 10 miles away to Harwich. No money savings means none of those state-of-the-art labs, multiple college prep courses, or top-level sports teams. Not that any of this was ever really going to happen. Consolidation was not a cure for any coming fiscal woes - it was simply a postponement.

Consolidation is an idea that has come and gone. Many people worked very hard to pay through the nose for a house in Chatham because they wanted their kids to go to school in Chatham. Small is good. Kids like small. Teachers like small. Parents like small. It is why we get so many school choice students from all over the Cape coming to us. But the state wants big. Supposedly big is more efficient. Yes, let’s take a lesson in the wise use of tax dollars from the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

Read this and Andy’s other columns online at The Cape Cod Chronicle.

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Jul 22 2010

Hit and Run History Goes After the Sharks

In response to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts’ video “Tagging a Great White Shark” (featuring Greg Skomal), the crew of Hit and Run History heads out on the waters of Chatham to see if they can do better.

It wasn’t that hard.

This is what we do.

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Jun 25 2010

The Common Flat

Published by admin under Cape Cod, Chatham, Family

This summer, as we’ve done for the past couple years, we’ll take the small boat with the flaking paint job and semi-reliable outboard motor out the Oyster Pond, down the river, around the corner of Stage Harbor and into Nantucket Sound. Hugging the coast of Morris Island, we’ll head east along the tight channel and eventually cross over toward the northwest corner of North Monomoy Island.Monomoy steamer clams

Approaching the shallows - the flooded expanse that is the Common Flat running well west from Monomoy into the Sound — we’ll cut the engine (assuming it is still running) far from the sand bars that expose themselves for hours during low tide. The clear, clean water around us will be maybe two feet deep. We will be far from any land that is reliably dry, yet the depth of the water for hundreds of yards will be nothing more than up to my knees.

The anchor dropped, we’ll settle into a lunch of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and chips, washed down with pink lemonade, and juicy red plums for dessert. Then it will be into the water, donning the masks and flippers, and armed with dip nets for some serious snorkeling.

This discovery was made when I beached the boat on the edge of the flats, and had gone to test the area with my clam hoe. Sofie had never been clamming before, so it seemed this hot and sunny July day was a prime opportunity. What I didn’t expect to find was nothing. There were just no siphon holes at all in an area where I had always been able to find some clams. We walked up and down the edge of the beach, expanded immensely by the dropping tide, and found no clams, no holes, and of course, no clam diggers.

Pushing the boat off the shore, wading back towards the channel, I was reassessing our plans when something very strong and sharp clamped on my toe. I nearly jumped straight up into the boat. It was a sand crab, just below the surface, unhappy with my intrusion. I donned my pair of black neoprene scuba boots, and maneuvered the boat along the south edge of the channel and into the acres of water that is never quite exposed, nor never quite deep enough to take a boat. We tethered our inner tubes to the boat and floated on the surface, face down with our new masks and snorkels.

Every once in a while, we would see a crab skitter by, and I’d grab my basket rake and pull it up into a bucket. With a little water to rest it, the crab would receive a name and probably a serenade from Sofie while back on the boat. (They are too small to eat, really.) Then it would be returned to the sea, and we’d set off on search of some other prize.

It would be easy to conclude the bounty of clams that were once here have been decimated by sand crabs. It is probably no more their fault than any clammer using a simple wooden-handled rake. But clams are cyclical. Here today, gone tomorrow…here again. Currents change, which affects the flow of nutrients. With South Beach connected to Monomoy, the Atlantic doesn’t wash in here as it once did. Depths of this soft sand change.

The area just north of here, between the east coast of Morris Island and the west shore of South Beach, is becoming more sheltered, and has an environment more conducive to scallops and quahogs. So this is not exactly bad news.

This all brings to mind, however, the ongoing struggle with the federal government regarding the continuing right of Chatham commercial shellfishermen to harvest clams from the flats surrounding Monomoy Island. So much effort and money has been spent on making a case to the policy makers in Washington, and yet the same issues face us, as unresolved as ever. The feds feel restrained by federal law, the politicians are afraid of national environmental groups, and those groups oppose based on principle.

As a selectman, I suggested perhaps, as the town of Chatham builds it case based upon the science and the unique history of shellfishing on Monomoy, that we initiate dialogue with the individual members of the organizations that were reportedly threatening all sort of actions should commercial shellfishing be allowed to continue here. We had heard from our elected representatives and legal counsel that this was a bad idea. No explanation, but this was the “let the process work itself out” argument.

Of course, these same people giving this advice were the one who stood to benefit from acting as intermediaries with, as they put it, “the bird people.” As if they were a bogeyman. Not enough grains of salt were taken with their counsel, then. Politicians will tend to do the thing that gets them the most attention with the least amount of courage. Lawyers will tend to use up every dollar of a retainer that is advanced.

To be honest, I can no more fault them for their nature any more than a crab pinching my toe in the sand as I walk by. The crabs are neither the problem nor the solution. They have become a distraction. If we are serious about fixing this ongoing concern, then we need to start talking to the people with whom we differ, and find how wide the distance really is between our positions on this one area we care for.

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May 21 2010

Why We’re Here

Girl Wonder in Brewster in Blook“They keep feeling like long weekends,” Sofie said this Monday morning as she picked up her backpack and headed out the door.  “Why?”

I remember the first time she uttered the dreaded three-letter word.  It was my birthday a few years back, and she was just getting into her evening bubble bath.  It started off  as several different questions, “Wha-who-howwwwwwwWHY?”  This truly was the death knell for the last shreds of my parental sanity.

On the other hand, Monday morning’s WHY was definitely worth examining.  The previous weekend we had started off with baseball practice, a bike ride, then heading to Hyannis for our long-delayed digital television purchase, some indulgent investigation of our new HD channels, then the next day’s riding for the Pan Mass Challenge in the Brewster in Bloom Parade, a late lunch at Friendly’s, some helping in her neighbor’s garden, and finally watching a movie on that new HDTV.

Her assessment the next morning was that it felt like a five-day weekend.  And this morning, her aforesaid observation, and wondering about that.

I replied, “Well, maybe with the nicer weather, we can do so much more.”  Might be that with my seven-year-old Barbie Tomboy now passing four feet in height, her world of possible activities is growing as fast as our well-watered yard.

Last week I introduced the concept of “Time flies when you’re having fun.”  I’ll hold off for now on the related idea, “Summer is why we suffer through nine months of winter here.”

When I returned from Germany with my baby girl, alone, in 2004, it was with the desire to have her grow up much as I had.  In a safe small town near the water, surrounded by a large extended family.   And while she’s had a fairly active childhood, with summer rec programs, soccer, skating, tennis, South Beach campouts, and all the rest, I think there’s a certain shift in consciousness that comes about this age following first grade.

Now proficient in reading and math, she not only understands the concept of putting money into her savings account – she can make a sign for the much-anticipated cash cow of a lemonade stand.  She’s started writing her own stories, which leads to a desire to explore.  And unlike when she was younger, she has a greater physical ability to explore in relative safely.  I don’t have to keep an eye on her 100 percent of the time, although I am definitely the preferred playtime companion.  Still.

In February, when we had to take three different flights to get to Munich, I got a preview of this new level of confidence.  She was frequently ahead of me with her carry-on, as we navigated from one side of a large airport to another.  She could read the signs for the terminal or gates, and in reading the clocks be able to tell how much time we had to get there.  The concept of currency exchange still was tough, but then again I’ve traveled with a few adults who after a week were still struggling.

So if this is how we are heading into summer, I can only imagine what I will have on my hands by the end. By Labor Day, I am probably going to be looking back at countless skinned knees, bug bites, bruises, cuts from stepping on shells or sea glass, burns from getting too close to the grill or campfire even though I said stay well away, near-misses with oblivious drivers, sugar high crashes, episodes of getting separated in large crowds, jellyfish stings, waterlogging, stepping in God-knows-what and tracking it in the house, ice-cold garden hose rinse-offs after the beach, slips over the side of the boat or canoe, grumpy days from “sleeping” out in the tent the night before and not getting any rest, bugs eaten while berry picking, rashes from experimentation with poison ivy resistance, a few cat scratches, two bee stings, and at least one random dog bite.

That is, if we are lucky.  Given that she will likely survive intact, the greatest challenge she may face is remembering to regularly write at least some of it down.  This may be the year of the summer journal — to remember why we’re here.

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