Archive for the 'Columbia Expedition' Category

Feb 24 2013

The Dengue & the Volcano

Gripped with Dengue Fever, Cape Verde gets help from the Gumshoe Historians

We thought our story lay only on Maio and Santiago. But Fogo — a cone rising from the ocean — is in the grips of dengue, its hospital overwhelmed and HRH brings in simple medical supplies.

Yet again we find connections back to Columbia and John Kendrick in a village at the base of the volcano. Coastal places and peoples stand connected, an ocean apart. And the wine flowed…

Interviews: Dr. Mario Sena, Hon. João Aqueleu Barbosa Amado

Locations: Hospital of São Filipe,Chã das Caldeiras and SantaCatarina

This program is funded in part by Mass Humanities, which receives support from the Massachusetts Cultural Council and is an affiliate of the National Endowment for the Humanities.

© Thunderball Entertainment Group 2013. Hit and Run History™ and the Columbia Expedition™ are trademarks of Thunderball Entertainment Group.

Watch this episode, “Fogo”, by subscribing to their FREE video podcast on iTunes. Just search “Hit and Run History”. Or watch online at YouTubeVimeo or Blip. Follow Hit and Run History as they follow the story of the Columbia Expedition and John Kendrick around the world at www.hitandrunhistory.com.

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Feb 11 2013

The Isle of May welcomes the Gumshoe Historians

Cast off!

Cape Cod’s Gumshoe Historians are off at last, crossing the Atlantic. Next stop, the African archipelago of Cape Verde. The Columbia Expedition stopped here in November 1787, anchoring at the tiny island of Isle of May (Maio) at Porto Ingles.

The village on “English Roads” is a former slave entrepôt still bears the marks of human trafficking from centuries ago. So why did Captain Kendrick choose this barren little island to bring Columbia and Washington to? And why stay here for a week when the capital of the islands, Praia, lay just across the channel?

Hit and Run History finds some answers. And a ton of sunshine, sandy beaches and a friendly faces.

Locations: Logan Airport, Boston; Praia and Port Ingles, Maio, Cape Verde.

Interviews: Joshua M. Smith, AlanMcClennen, Jr.

This program is funded in part by Mass Humanities, which receives support from the Massachusetts Cultural Council and is an affiliate of the National Endowment for the Humanities.

© Thunderball Entertainment Group 2013. Hit and Run History™ and the Columbia Expedition™ are trademarks of Thunderball Entertainment Group.

Watch this episode, Maio, by subscribing to their FREE video podcast on iTunes. Just search “Hit and Run History”. Or watch online at YouTubeVimeo our Blip. Follow Hit and Run History as they follow the story of the Columbia Expedition and John Kendrick around the world at www.hitandrunhistory.com.

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Feb 02 2013

Man Overboard

Cape Cod’s Intrepid Gumshoe Historians laugh in the face of death


Captain Kendrick’s sword is DONE. So Andrew Buckley and his Gumshoe Historians better test it out.

But as they prepare to follow the Columbia Expedition across the ocean, plans begin to unravel. Could they have gotten the wrong man in New York? Then they lose their Portuguese translator.

And news of an epidemic in Cape Verde.

This is turning out to be much more than a history show. This is an adventure.

Locations: Chatham, Sturgis Library – Barnstable, Quincy, Cape Cod Community Media Center

This program is funded in part by Mass Humanities, which receives support from the Massachusetts Cultural Council and is an affiliate of the National Endowment for the Humanities.

© Thunderball Entertainment Group 2013. Hit and Run History™ and the Columbia Expedition™ are trademarks of Thunderball Entertainment Group.

Watch this episode, Man Overboard, by subscribing to their FREE video podcast on iTunes. Just search “Hit and Run History”. Or watch online at on YouTubeVimeo our Blip.

Follow Hit and Run History as they follow the story of the Columbia Expedition and John Kendrick around the world at www.hitandrunhistory.com.

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Oct 19 2012

Breakfast At Captain Kendrick’s Table

Looking across Hull Gut. A good jumping off point to catch a wind or the outgoing tide from Boston Harbor. Follow us on the trail of John Kendrick and the Columbia Expedition at www.blip.tv/hitandrunhistoryCommemorating Columbia and Washington Day

“Cold this morning. Brings ‘em inside.”

Looking at the breakfast cook across the counter, a man in a gray hoodie ordered coffee and replied, “Takes time for that boat to warm up, first run of the day.”

It was 8:35 a.m. and it looked like all regulars were piling in. A brilliant beginning to the day looking across Hull Gut to Peddocks Island. What better place to commemorate Columbia and Washington Day than Pemberton Bait & Tackle?

“Regular coffee. Milk and extra sugar?” the woman with the pot asked.

“Extra milk,” said the elderly gentleman who was unwrapping something in a paper towel. It was two slices of what looked to be homemade raisin bread. He passed it across the counter for her to toast with his order. “The bacon – do me a favor? Crispy. Crispy. Crispy.”

Two hundred and twenty-five years ago, something amazing happened here. Within a good stone’s throw from here, the very tip of the town of Hull, where Pemberton Point hooks out into Boston Harbor. This is where America took off.

“Fisherman’s, over easy. With bacon, home fries and an English.” Another regular.

Fishermen's Special at Pemberton Bait & Tackle in Hull

I was having the Fisherman’s Special. Three eggs sunnyside up, three strips of bacon, hash browns, and toast. Coffee. Orange juice. Competing commercials from Elizabeth Warren and Scott Brown were punctuating the Fox News broadcast over my head.

“No bagels,” the cook said to someone over my shoulder. This was a commuter, stopping in before the ferry arrived. The strong northwest wind drove him indoors. Just like I had learned.

There would have been a good breakfast this morning, 225 years ago. Oct. 1, 1787. Dawn in Nantasket Roads. Aboard the ship Columbia RedivivaRobert Haswell would have looked to Hull village, his boyhood home. Until his father, a Loyalist, and the entire family was moved inland and placed under house arrest. Exchanged for American POWs, the Haswells would spend the rest of the war in England and on the brink of utter destitution.

Somehow, 10 years later, he found himself at age 19 as third officer aboard the first American ship to circle the globe. Having come down from Castle Roads at the entrance to the inner harbor the day before, the Columbia Expedition would be leaving Boston Harbor on its groundbreaking voyage that morning.

Wind turbine at Pemberton Point, Hull, Massachusetts

I’d gotten here just a few minutes before dawn. Leaving from Chatham at 4:30, I’d gotten here in a little under two hours. I had pulled up to the Point, right below the spinning blades of Hull’s windmill, and then headed up to Fort Revere.

From high atop this hill, all of Boston Harbor and its approaches from Massachusetts Bay are possible. The sun was about to rise, and the rain and clouds that had bedeviled us through the weekend were rapidly diminishing. The light wasfantastic. Boston Light, across Nantasket Roads, blinked on and off, and I tried to time my camera phone to the blinking. Kept missing. Still got some gorgeous shots.

As the rays of sun streamed across the harbor, they caught a cruise ship heading in from the sea. Its white hull and upper decks lit up with a golden-ivory luminescence. An American Airlines jet, having taken off from Logan, passed directly overhead of the Fort, the flagpole and me. And for all this modernity, the one difference I seized on was “the tide right now is coming in. Back then, it would have been going out.”

To get the 212-ton Columbia out of the harbor easily, that is.

I hadn’t come to Hull to talk to anyone. I’d been here four years ago, with Kane Stanton of Harwich, as we took the ferry from Long Wharf to here. We’d just started our journey following John Kendrick and the Columbia around the world. I’d told Kane we needed to get out to the places where history happened.

Looking across Nantasket Roads from Fort Revere to Boston Light

As Peter Drummey, librarian at the Massachusetts Historical Society, had told me, perhaps the reason that this story hadn’t taken hold in public consciousness, especially with young people, was it had been approached with too much reverence for either of its main actors, John Kendrick and Robert Gray. “A guerrilla history lesson” is how Kane described our approach.

As we’ve found out irreverence works. It opens doors and minds.

But that’s not why I came to Hull this morning. I felt the best way to remember all the men of Columbia, John Kendrick especially, was to see what they saw that morning that they set out to open the world to us all.

To see the sun rise reflect off Boston Light as it blinks on and off. To dip my hands into the water of Nantasket Roads at dawn and feel the temperature on the first day of October. To watch the comings and goings of the small boats of the harbor and the massive freighters out at sea. And to try to think about what our unreliable narrator, Robert Haswell, surrounded and commanded by men who had captured British merchant vessels and made out pretty well during the war while he lived in poverty as a refugee, would be thinking as he wrote in his log book while leaving Hull yet again.

Pemberton Point ferry dock: the gate closes for the water shuttle to Long Wharf and Logan AirportHaving written about this for 17 years now, and authored an original view of Captain Kendrick as an under-appreciated actor on the world stage in my book back in 1999, I felt I owed it to him and his men. To remember them as anyone who works on the water would appreciate. To go down to the dock for a good breakfast, raise a mug and whisper thanks.

Scraping the last of the yolk with my toast, I headed off into the wind. The harbor shuttle pulled up, loaded its passengers and departed.

“Early on Monday morning we weighed and came to sail, and by sunrise we were out of the Harbour.” — Robert Haswell, 1st October 1787. A Voyage Round the World in the Ship Columbia Rediviva.

Read this and Andy’s other columns online at The Cape Cod Chronicle.

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Sep 20 2012

Dear Governor Patrick: Remember Them All

Captain John Kendrick copyright 2012 Thunderball Entertainment Group all rights reserved.Dear Governor Patrick:

I have recently learned of your intent to declare Oct. 1, 2012 as “John Kendrick Day” in the Commonwealth. The draft of the proclamation I have seen, written by Scott Ridley, cites Captain Kendrick’s career as a Revolutionary War privateer, and, more importantly, his role as commander of the Columbia Expedition – the first American voyage ‘round the world.

Having spent the last 17 years on the track of Kendrick and the Columbia, in libraries from Barnstable and Salem to Vancouver, LondonHong Kong and Manila, writing one novel and countless news articles, and producing an ongoing series for WGBH for which we received over a dozen grants from the Massachusetts Cultural Council and Massachusetts Foundation for the Humanities, this is a topic in which I hold, clearly, a great deal of interest.

As a native Cape Codder who claims John Kendrick as a kinsman, who grew up on and fished the same waters of Pleasant Bay and the elbow of Cape Cod, and like him has gathered a crew from all over New England to travel to Cape Verde, the Falklands, Cape Horn, Argentina and Chile en route to the Pacific Northwest, Hawaii, China and Japan, it is with great sincerity and in all seriousness that I ask you to reconsider.

Please do not proclaim Oct. 1, 2012 as “John Kendrick Day” in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

This is not a request I make lightly, and I am sure other historians expert in the topic and humanities professionals would concur with my reasoning.
Log of Columbia and Washington by Robert HaswellI do not argue that this is a date unworthy of commemoration. Two hundred and twenty-five years ago, the ship Columbia Rediviva and its smaller consort, the sloop Lady Washington, were preparing to depart for parts unknown, in a desperate gamble to pull the local economy out of post-Revolutionary War Recession. An ad hoc syndicate composed of former war profiteers, privateers and slavers were brought together in the house of architect Charles Bulfinch (who designed the very building in which you are reading this letter), fresh from the Paris salon of Ambassador Thomas Jefferson.

The goal of this private enterprise was no less than to replace the old trade routes inside the British mercantile system from before independence with global trade with China and Pacific, making the very most of the open markets that lay before the new United States. Yankee ingenuity at its best.

And John Kendrick, born and raised on the Harwich-Orleans line, who had married in Edgartown and raised a family in Wareham, a successful privateer and whaler, was chosen to command.

What he did with that command,the legend that surrounds it, and the fact that he never returned home have been a matter of controversy. But controversies among academics alone are certainly not enough to deny a man acknowledgment.

Rather, there is a chapter to this story that is very dark. Upon two visits to what we know as Queen Charlotte Islands, off the west coast of Canada, Captain Kendrick came into conflict with the people who refer to their archipelago as Haida Gwaii.

His first visit ended in undisputed humiliation of two chiefs, the second in the deaths of scores of Haida. This, in turn, resulted in the deadly capture years later of the schooner Resolution by the Haida, with only one survivor.
Having grown up next to the last village of the Nauset tribe, and maintaining exceedingly cordial relations with the First Peoples at Nootka Sound and Clayoquot Sound on the west coast of Vancouver Island, John Kendrick’s conduct at Haida Gwaii seems oddly out of step. Why it happened remains in dispute. The result is not.

To the people of Haida Gwaii, this is a very painful episode in their history, with repercussions through the generations. Kendrick’s visits coincide with the breakdown in their traditional society. Christie Harris’ painstaking research with the Haida and their oral histories resulted in Raven’s Cry, first published in 1966. John Kendrick casts a dark shadow in the memory of the Haida. The wound is still fresh.

It is clear Mr. Ridley is very enthusiastic about his book on Captain Kendrick, and wants to spread the word far and wide, seeing this 225th anniversary as a good opportunity to do so. However, in his recent headlong hero-worship, Ridley has greatly glossed over the incidents with the Haida.

Haida mask, photo by Ken DuckertBut there is another man whose opinion and expertise I ask you to consider. Robert Kennedy has served for years aboard Washington state’s official tall ship, the replica of the Lady Washington, and is a member of the Haida Nation. In response to your intended proclamation, Bob observed: “The inability of ‘history’to incorporate the impact on the Native Peoples of the Americas is, to those Native Peoples, criminal, but not unexpected.”

In approaching the story of the Columbia Expedition, I have felt there was no actor in it wearing a completely white hat. I have always been clear as to my background, my personal connection to Captain Kendrick, and my affinity for his talents as a navigator, diplomat, trader and storyteller. I still see him in the faces of the fishing fleet and the flats of Chatham every day.

But when we raise John Kendrick far above us on a pedestal, we remove him from humanity. He becomes unapproachable, inaccessible.

We diminish those who worked with him, supported him. Worse, we ignore those who still bear wounds he inflicted. I am sure you would agree there is never a better time than now for a lot more understanding and a lot less bluster. Let us move with less haste as we carve him into white marble.

For more practical terms, my own concern is that anyone, myself, my daughter and my crew included, from Massachusetts heading out to Haida Gwaii from here forward will be received in the context of your proclamation. Is this how we want Bay Staters to be known to a coastal people with a long and rich cultural tradition on the Pacific Rim? Long after you leave office, the memory of your proclamation will remain in the minds of the Haida.

Columbia and Washington medal

However, the alternative is not to simply ignore this anniversary on Oct. 1, 2012 and the very real – and leading – role that John Kendrick played. So instead, I call upon you to instead be more inclusive and proclaim it “Columbia Day.”

Include in that the roles of all members of the Columbia Expedition. First Officer Joseph Ingraham, who served in the Massachusetts Navy and ended up as a prisoner of war on the prison ship JerseyRobert Gray, the captain of the Washington, whose past is still in dispute. Include all the backers of the voyages: chief investor Joseph Barrell, privateer John Derby, blackbirder Crowell Hatch and refugee Samuel Brown, as well as Charles Bulfinch. You would honor Robert Haswell, the loyalist who returned to the United States to service as a junior officer and wrote the log of Columbia. The shipbuilders of Scituate, Marshfield and Essex. And the dozens of other men of Massachusetts, and their families who remained at home, and served as the foundation of our Republic.

Robert Haswell of the Columbia Expedition


Additionally, you would honor the people around the world who had never seen an American before. Who helped the men of Columbia on their way, curious about this new democracy and its people, and who helped her return home three years later.You would honor young Marcus Lopes, who joined at Cape Verde and certainly had no idea the hardships he would face rounding Cape Horn in the tiny sloop Washington. You would certainly spark greater interest in the whole topic of the Columbia Expedition (and not just one man), as that story still lies in shards about the globe.

In the service of history and of humanity, I humbly ask you to take a broad view of the event that commenced on that morning on the first of October 1787 off Pemberton Point in Hull. There is much good to be done by your words, and I ask you to make the very most of this anniversary.


Sincerely,

Andrew Giles Buckley

Chatham, Mass.

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Sep 18 2012

A Tale of Two Vessels

North Shore, South Shore: The story of the Columbia and the Washington

“You can’t trust anything he would have written.” Gumshoe historians Andrew Buckley and Matt Griffin turn the corner on the trail of the Columbia Expedition and John Kendrick. Columbia Rediviva: A ship built just prior to the Revolution on the South Shore. Her junior partner, Lady Washington: an old sloop built on the North Shore.

Hints at a background in slavery, but the vessel truly carrying the story is in the hands of young man with divided loyalties and a chip on his shoulder.

Columbia and Washington

Locations: Boston, Marshfield, Scituate, Essex, Massachusetts.

Interviews: Peter Drummey, Cynthia Krusell, Justin Demetri, Benjamin Dunham

Boston’s Shea Rose introduces this fourth installment of the new Hit and Run History series. “Now they’re getting to all the right places, to all the right people,” says Rose, describing the Buckley and Griffin’s progress in following the genesis of the first American voyage ’round the world.
Holding the most precious artifacts from the Columbia Expedition, the Masachusetts Historical Society is the first stop for host Andrew Buckley and assistant director Matthew Griffin. The original log of junior officer Robert Haswell, and his painted portrait are among the treasures. Then in the office of MHS Librarian Peter Drummey, while shooting a precise replica of Columbia, Buckley tells of a larger model in the most unlikely of places.

Captain Robert Gray of the Columbia Expedition copyright 2012 Thunderball Entertainment Group all rights reserved

Soon it is off to the South Shore, to talk with Marshfield Town Historian Cynthia Krusell. Lying between Scituate and Marshfield, the North River was home to Brigg’s shipyard at Hobart’s Landing. This is where the ship Columbia was launched in 1773.
Then we head up to the North Shore to the Essex Shipbuilding Museum. Justin Demetri and Buckley compare the Chebacco boat style with the plans of the current-day Lady Washington — the replica of the small sloop that accompanied Columbia to the Pacific Northwest.
But circling back to historian Ben Dunham, what was the real vessel that carried the story? Robert Haswell’s log, the only first-person account of this first voyage, is called into question. And the background of 2nd in command Robert Gray, a Rhode Islander, is tied to the dying out of the slave trade in that state prior to Columbia’s departure. Before we’ve even left home, we now wonder: Is there any single source we can trust?

Watch “The Ship” here or subscribe to the Hit and Run History video podcast on iTunes.

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Aug 13 2012

Cape Cod’s Greatest Sea Captain

Cape Cod’s Gumshoe Historians profile John Kendrick of the Columbia Expedition

O Captain! My Captain! The man picked to command the Columbia Expedition had a lifetime of experience. Militiaman. Whaler. Privateer. Gumshoe Historians Andrew Buckley and Matt Griffin track John Kendrick from the South Orleans/East Harwich shores of Pleasant Bay to Edgartown Harbor, then over to the house on Wareham Narrows bought with booty from the Revolution.

Locations: Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & South Coast of Massachusetts.

Interviews: Alan McClennen, Nancy Cole, Thornton Gibbs, Benjamin Dunham

Captain John Kendrick of the Columbia Expedition copyright 2012 Thunderball Entertainment Group all rights reservedBoston rocker Shea Rose again introduces this episode, the second in this series from Hit and Run History. Creator and host Andrew Buckley and Assistant director Matthew Griffin start off in very familiar territory – just a couple towns over from their native Chatham. Sharing lineage with Columbia’s commander, the two start with an interview with Alan McClennen, Jr. of Friends of Pleasant Bay. The big question is what lessons would Kendrick have learned at an early age here, in this remote corner of New England, that would make him the man chosen to lead the first American voyage ’round the world?
Then it’s off to the Vineyard to hunt down any records of Kendrick’s young adulthood in the whaling port of Edgartown. A snow day greets the boys as they head off across Vineyard Sound and down the road to the Dukes County Registry of Deeds.
With a copy of an ancient record in hand, and with the help of Nancy COle of the Martha’s Vineyard Museum, they’re able to pinpoint the location of Kendrick’s house during the American Revolution.
Wrapping up, a tour of the John Kendrick Maritime Museum in Wareham reveals a house that has changed little since the captain left it to the care of his wife, Huldah, over two centuries ago. Kendrick bought it with the booty from privateering in the Revolution. Buckley and Griffin follow up with an interviews with Ben Dunham and Thornton Gibbs of the Wareham Historical Society. The latter was the last interview given before Gibbs died a few months later.
This is where the Hit and Run History style really starts coming together. Ranging from one location to another, getting the interview and moving on to the locations where our characters lived. Irreverent, curious, but well-informed, the Gumshoes help us get into the head of historical figures like John Kendrick.

Watch “The Commander” here or subscribe to the Hit and Run History video podcast on iTunes.

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Jun 19 2012

Hit and Run History premieres new series

Cape Cod’s Gumshoe Historians in Woods Hole & Boston


While many larger media empires founder in these ever-shifting seas, Cape Cod’s fishermen-turned-filmmakers have turned as quickly as a catboat.

In the midst of production of their Falklands and Cape Horn series this winter, Hit and Run History took their original pilot episode and began to re-edit it for online. Unveiled today, their very first installment is available for all to watch on their channel on Blip and to download on iTunes.

Creator and Host Andrew Buckley research on the first American voyage ’round the world began in 1995, when he stumbled across the story of Captain John Kendrick. Born on the shores of Pleasant Bay (in what was then Harwich, now South Orleans) in 1740, Kendrick would command the ship Columbia Redeviva as it left Boston in the fall of 1787, just a few weeks after the Unites States Constitution was drafted. Bound for the Pacific Northwest Coast and China, the Columbia Expedition was a desperate gamble by an ad hoc syndicate of merchants to jump start the New England economy, mired for years in the post-Revolutionary war recession.

Introduced by Boston rocker Shea Rose, this very first webisode shows Buckley and Assistant director Matthew Griffin as they begin the process of documenting Columbia’s origin and its voyage. Interviewing Mary Malloy of the Sea Education Association in Woods Hole and MassHumanities Pleun Bouricius, the HRH crew is off to a rough start. But their passion for story is contagious, and despite the long odds of making a travel show based around a forgotten chapter of history, it looks like they could just pull this off.

Are you ready for the adventure of a lifetime?

http://blip.tv/hitandrunhistory/columbia-expedition-01-1-a-rough-start-6205722

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May 10 2012

Bad Birthday

Hit and Run History flies FIGAS across the FalklandsA year ago at this time, I was spending a glorious warm and sunny day on Saunders Island in the West Falklands. On this island about the size of the city of Boston with a population of six (that’s people – there were thousands of sheep and penguins), our film crew was packing for departure the next morning.

It had been a good week here a few hundred miles north of the Antarctic Circle, having followed Cape Cod’s John Kendrick and the Columbia Expedition to their landing spot on the first-ever voyage ‘round the world.

The next day, Friday, we were to catch the Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS) bush plane back to the capital of Stanley, and then the weekly LAN Airlines on Saturday for the journey home. Friday was my birthday, too.

Departing on Friday.

Friday the 13th.

So that didn’t work out. Fog crept into the Falklands, and FIGAS used to flying in the prevailing weather of high winds balked at doing the same in fog.

We were stuck, missed the LAN flight home and were stuck for one more week in the Falklands. Over 7,000 miles from home. Happy birthday.

I really do like my birthday, though. It’s May and typically the tulips are all out here on the Cape. Except for this year when they bloomed soon after St. Patrick’s Day. I heard that while I was gone, the weather here was similar to that in the Falklands, the seasons being reversed so that down there it was like November here. Except here was like November here. Or perhaps more like May here, which usually involves week-long nor’easters that blow the blooms off the trees and have us back in our winter parkas for a week or more.

LAN Airlines Hit and Run History Falklands HO

There’s annual town meeting, too, which I have always been pleased Chatham tries to schedule for my convenience. As a student of political science, my point of view was informed by the purest form of direct democracy in the world. And who doesn’t want to cut short their birthday dinner to go sit on a hard chair or bench for four hours of discussion – less than five minutes on a multimillion dollar budget, but perhaps an hour for an article of a thousand dollars or less? Except as a single parent, the real imperative in recent years is to get nine-year-old Sofie to bed on time.

Well, at least there’s a town election we can go to. She loves elections, and always asks me why I chose the person I did, and what job each person is seeking. Having been a selectman, I can kind of describe what it is, but it usually comes out sounding less important than it is. “We sit around a table and talk and vote to ask people who work for the town to do things.” No wonder only three people are running for two spots. It is still three, yes? It’s hard enough to explain all this to her.

But while other people get free drinks on their birthday, fate often conspires against me. Aside from being stranded far from home last year, when I turned 16 a Winnebago hit me in a VW bug in front of the Cape Cod Mall, and years later someone hit me and tried to run me over while I was already on crutches. I was thinking that this year I just ought to wear a helmet and hole up in the basement with some delivery pizza. Except there is no delivery pizza in Chatham, and I’m not so sure about taking the risk of heading out to pick one up.

Biding time on Saunders IslandI’ve been hoping that bad fortune used up all its firepower last year with the stranding. Some years, all I do is sprain my ankle. But that’s more of a sure sign of spring. With big feet and small ankles, I only need to get out on uneven pavement after months inside for me to soon end up face down in the street. Doesn’t count.

Same goes for the recent profile of me in this year’s Chatham Magazine. Written by The Cape Cod Chronicle’s Jennifer Sexton, her words were later changed at the editorial offices of the Hyannis-based publication to claim that I am “currently a Chatham selectman.”

In reality, it has been 10 years this May since I was on the board of selectmen. If it weren’t for the fact that this erroneous correction reflects poorly (and without merit) on Ms. Sexton, or that they misspelled Sofie’s name wrong despite having the correct spelling also provided by Ms. Sexton, I would almost laugh. Could I use this to get a better table at CBI’s Mother’s Day brunch?

But absurdities don’t count. I’m watching out for something seriously bad.

The suspense has been killing me. I really have grown fond of all 10 fingers and all 10 toes, and seeing through both my eyes, and more often than not having the ability to put a couple words together coherently enough to order that pizza. I’d hate to lose any of these.

Especially the pizza. Deliveries gratefully accepted at my bunker through Monday. Drop it and run for your life.

Read this and Andy’s other columns online at The Cape Cod Chronicle.

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Apr 19 2012

Historical, Not Historesque

A gorgeous day on the Straits of MagellanOn the breezy, sandy shores of the Straits of Magellan, a man in brown coveralls is smoking a plank. One end sits in a repurposed oil drum and slowly the other end of the wood is being pulled in a lateral direction. Warped, the plank is, to sheath the sides of a schooner.

This is a replica of the Goleta Ancud, the vessel by which the nation of Chile claimed this area of Patagonia. Here on the grounds of the Museo Nao Victoria stands another replica, this one of Magellan’s fleet, namesake of the museum. The shipwright finished that a just few months ago.
Juan Cariñanco has been building ships since he was 8 years old.
We were on our way from the cruise ship dock to the airport to catch our flight to Santiago, Chile’s capital. Having spent a few days on the modern Stella Australis, visiting the end of the Earth, Cape Horn, as well as the Beagle Channel, the Aguila Glacier and only 100,000-plus penguins on nearby Magdalena Island, we were struck by the contrast in this makeshift shipyard.
One man with a few hand-power tools, using native wood, the curl of shavings blowing about and the beach just a couple dozen yards away. Being late March, this was the South American autumn – the shoulder season – and so our combined crews from the Hit and Run History and Through My Eyes series were the only visitors.
While in a dramatic location certainly, the museum’s grounds are too far outside of town to be accessible by foot traffic. That’s indicative to someone who grew up Chatham. When we travel, we look at how other places deal with tourism. Are they gorgeous and undiscovered? Or sadly overexploited, underwhelming, or even inexplicably unappreciated? It doesn’t dominate our thinking, but it does crop up. It’s part of their local economy and so part of their local story.
But boatbuilding on the beach – that’s a tradition that goes back centuries in Chatham. Perhaps not so many schooners here, but the tools and principles that Juan was using are familiar enough.And there is no mistaking the smell of evergreen sawdust kicking up in the salt wind.

The Shipwright - Hit and Run History in Patagonia

As I’ve been ruminating on Chatham’s 300th anniversary, I keep coming back to this scene near the tip of South America, 6,500 miles away. Perhaps it is a perception of what history is. That is, not a defined set of facts but an ongoing process of inquiry.
Recently I heard an interview with someone on board the ship visiting the Titanic’s resting place. The person would have seemed to be an expert, except that his revelation was that he kept meeting people on this cruise who knew facts about the Titanic he didn’t. That’s the mark of a true historian – when you realize how much more there is to learn about a topic. But perhaps you can at least get a sense of the place, or event or person, and convey it effectively.
When the proposal for a set of stocks was put forward as part of the town’s 300th celebration, my first reaction was factual. They never existed here, so they should not be introduced now. That they might be fun didn’t enter into the equation. I am certain we will see people walking around in outlandish pirate garb as well. Highly questionable historical integrity there as well. Fun, nonetheless.
To the accuracy of whether there were stocks or a pillory in Chatham, I can speak with some authority. My first job out of college was as a researcher for the selectmen and town clerk to read the entirety of the town’s legal records. This included every single minute of the town meetings since incorporation.
All sorts of minutiae were included, including the length and diameter of the “rod of correction” for unruly boys who disturbed the meeting house a few hundred years ago. The cost of repairing the roof.The bounty for blackbird heads and horsefeet tails. And who bid what in the annual auctioning off of the poor.
But nothing about the building or maintaining of stocks. That would not have been something overlooked in a town that watched every penny and shilling. So that’s a relatively easy question to address. Factbased.
What was missed in the discussion however was why there were never stocks or a pillory in Chatham. Certainly there were such things in Plymouth, and that was the original colonial and cultural capital. Same goes for Boston.
Perhaps that is why I recall my brief time with the shipwright in Punta Arenas. He was practicing a very direct kind of history. He was demonstrating quite directly what it takes to make a ship and put it to sea on the waters that the original sailed. He was doing something true, and in so doing, making a story.
With so many shipmasters from Chatham, it would be nice to think of clipper ship replicas floating around here. But that just wasn’t the case. While those Chatham captains traveled to China, Europe and the South Seas, their ships’homes were Boston Harbor. Chatham waters are no place for a deep-draft sailing vessel. My point is that we must be careful not to fall prey to a false nostalgia for a time that never was. Be historical, rather than historesque.
Back to the question of Chatham’s stocks – or rather lack thereof. With a long history in Chatham, and plenty of time spent in studying the genealogies, deeds and wills of local families, I have my own thoughts on the answer. But rather than sharing that, I would rather invite your thoughts. History is about inquiry. What do you suppose?

Read this and Andy’s other columns online at
The Cape Cod Chronicle.

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